A few of my Favorite Things: ChiantiTwo years ago to this day, I set off on a wine tour into the Chianti countryside with 28 members of my family and a guide named Sara. Everyone agreed that it was a highlight of our trip and that is saying a lot considering there were truly no bad days. Today, I had the immense joy of accompanying a party of 19 on a tour into Chianti once again with Sara, this time as my partner. I awoke giddy with the knowledge of all the group would soon come to know. A drive deep into a heavily wooded terrain revealed the imposing Brolio Castle on the horizon. After greeting our guide, Susan, we entered through the drawn castle gate and spiraled up into the courtyard that flanked the "new" section and the original. The Castle has been in the Ricasole family for over 1000 years. Since they have been making wine at least that long, they are considerd the oldest family business in Italy. The armory, furnishings and various collections of curiosities are well preserved. A true example of a new Renaissance man, Bennito Ricasole was an artist, a statesman and a shrewd businessman to boot. The expansive views are so picturesque that even a group who has been in bella toscana for nearly a week were in awe of the sprawling countryside that laid out as far as the eye could see. What's more, it is this family, and their famous home, that is credited with the first recipe of original Chianti wine. I think we can all agree that thanks are in order...Mille Grazie! We officially experienced harvesting on a grand scale. The gathering, weighing, sorting and juicing of the grapes is an arduous and delicate process. To the people all over the world who drink it, we had the opportunity to pair Chianti at the Montirenaldi Villa, a private estate nestled in the countryside. Fine art, chandeliers, and frescoed cielings adorn the impressive yet cozy drawing rooms. Each time I eat here it feels as if I was personally invited by nobility. The food was presented in 4 courses and among the highlights for me were a 1983 Vin Santo served with desert. Imagine...this was produced when I was 2 years old!!! Last, but far far from least the Coltibuono Abbey. I can see the draw to become a holy steward, especially in the centuries past. There is simply no way to describe the peace of the mountains, the quiet solitude of the stone walls draping with ivy and the fountains and ornate drawing rooms that abound here. Here a soul may find peace. The clouds rolled in bringing whistling wind and a gentle mist as we sat together enjoying a lecture on wine, and the history of this stunning venue that now boasts accomodations, a restaurant and impressive wine produced in the fragrant underground of the old church. Yes, there is still a chapel on the property and the overall feeling was blissful and relaxed.
Home straight away to fit in a bit of shopping and dinner in our quaint corner of Chianti. I know that we are still in Italy but with all that surrounded us, The Sound of Music came to mind. Today "the hills are alive" and I enjoyed more than "a few of my favorite things."
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Life is Beautiful: ArezzoAfter I departed from the group, I had a very mello evening. A skype call home, with a visual tour of the main square, the purchase of a small gift for each of my boys and a salad...to bed I went. Apparently, some members of our group were much more lively. These ladies (you know who you are) were dancing in the piazza into the night. Highlands, Iv'e got to say, you've got some real pizzazz. After the luggage was maneuvered, manipulated and otherwise shoved into the bus, we were off to the "big city" of Arezzo. Travelanthropy's homebase and hometown of our guide, Sara, this little known gem in the middle of Tuscany has everything one would like to see, save a bathroom! After we learned about the orgin and importance of the ancient walled fortification, we entered the city during Sunday mass which is really the perfect opportunity for a lesson in fashion. Top Italian designers must have the easiest job in the world marketing style to these people...they are dripping with good taste and tailored showmanship. The fortress came after a walk through a large open park that hung onto the tippy top of the town. Then the decent into the awe inspiring Piazza Grande, the home of the bi-annual Giastro del Saracino which happens every year on my birthday. The notable incline, mideaval clock tower and Loggia designed by Giorgio Vasari, just one of the citys famous residents of old, is at the very least, breathtaking and evocative. It is no wonder that it was chosen as the location for the film Life is Beautiful.
Before long we were swept up on top of the world, overlooking all of the surrounding countryside at Podere di Pomiao Winery. This truly small, botique winery offered a tasty selection of antipasto and 100% hand processed organic wine. Havesting would begin in short order, which left the vines pregnant with ripened grapes. The smell alone was mouthwatering. Pomaio (as Sara affectionately refers to it) had opened its doors for our group on a day that most are closed. A little music, a little laughter and a quick cameo from her sweet son, Rui and soon we felt right at home. The group, well fed and relaxed now made the transfer to Radda in Chanti. Small, quaint and picturesque, the Hotel Leopoaldo pulled out all of the stops and we enjoyed a variety of welcome snacks, juice, spritz and Prosecco on the terrace. A lovely dinner with tradtional Tuscan bbq and of course...wine because...well, does one really need a reason on a wine tour? Each night I have enjoyed a new portion of the group as dining partners, this was no exception. Thank you Jenny Lynn and Gena for putting up with us rowdy ones. What a great day with a truly fabulous group of individuals. I had to beg Gary and Kathy to let me walk home without escort, my husband really appreciates you. As it turns out, these are the friendliest townfolk I have seen yet. Radda, you may have stolen my heart. Montalcino, Trasimeno and Happy Birthday Marie!Everyone was prompt this morning and looking alive. It seemed an evening to explore and dine on our own was just the ticket. I for one, had a small salad and called it a night. Truly, I felt as if I would not need anything else to eat for weeks to come, however; there was a chocolate festival in town. Sigh. An hour through the countryside and up the steep climb to the tiny mideaval hilltop village of Montalcino and we arrived at the ancient fortress. A look around provided an opportunity to enter the wine shop which featured an amazing collection of vintage Brunello bottles. Speaking of Brunello, (quite possibly my favorite wine of all time) the next stop at Casato Prime Donna had a history and a product that lived up to the name. A female owned and managed operation where also ALL of the vintners and staff are ladies, this winery was more than happy to extend their tasty selection to the fabulous men in our group as well. Truly a unique and powerful testament to perseverance through opposition, Donatella has risen to the top of her class in a profession that didn't want to let girls play. That didn't stop her, in fact she has now become one of the most celebrated wine makers in the world. Highlights were many from the art that was projected onto wine barrels in the cellar and the recognition that she bestows upon different women around the world that are working to make a difference. With such heart it is often difficult to also produce a great product, but; in this case, Brunello (made 100% from the Sangiovese grapes of Montalcino) was the Queen bee! Next up was the curious Paradiso di Frassina know around the world as the Mozart Winery. How is it that an Italian Vineyard comes to be connected to the famous Austrian composer? Well just ask UC Davis and they will assure you that these grapes have been serenaded, from inception through harvest and even throughout the barrel aging process, by the musical genius of the grandmasters works. Mozart plays 24hrs a day to heighten the frequency, size and composition of the grapes as well as protect them from harmful pests. University research showed that the vines that were exposed to not just any classical music, but Mozart in particular, had only 1 insect of mal intent compared to 20 in non-musical fields. Speakers are everywhere and the effect is quite intoxicating. At this stop we also learned a bit about humanity as a whole, cross cultural communication, hasty generalizations and courage to do the right thing instead of the easy one. I was most proud of my partner, Sara as she demonstrated that the members of our tour are not just our clients, but friends. PS: Don't mess with our friends an expect it to go unattended! In Happy news, we had a birthday celebration for a dear traveller, Marie who has been the resident comedian and a joy to be in company with.
A cruise on Lake Trasimeno and a sunset hike around the island Maggiore allowed a perfect moment to enjoy prosecco, almond cake and of course, a Travelanthropy version of "happy birthday to you." We ended the day on a high note arriving back to cortona just in time to choose some chocolate, afterall one cannot live on wine alone. Believe me, We Are Trying! Under The Tuscan Sun: Cortona and BeyondI greeted everyone with sleepy eyes and a "buongiorno." After a fabulous cocktail hour at the Hotel San Michele and a delicious 4 course meal at Osteria del Teatro in Cortona, our group had stumbled into bed the night before full to the gills with Tuscan faire, and libation. A private seating area, two visits from the chef and explanation of pairings throughout the meal left us feeling spoiled and happy. This morning, the lingering effects of our gluttony was apparent. Nevertheless, on time and willing, we walked down through the charming mideaval streets of Cortona to wherevour chariot awaited us. I use this term quite loosely...more on that in a bit. First stop near the town of Montepulciano was Winery Poliziano where we were welcomed by a friendly staff, and an impressively designed modern tasting room with glass doors, polished rose and purple marble countertops and clean lines. Our tour took us throughout the sizable maze of underground barrel rooms and through the "wine library" which featured some of the property's best vinages in assorted sizes and obligatory dust on the bottles. When asked how much one such selection might be to purchase, the response was quite clearly "priceless" as these were the private collection, kept only for collecting data on aging processes and more pleasing to hear; for the family's use on special occasions. We were however not meant to be dissapointed as we were taken promptly to a few mouthwatering selections of Rosso, Nobile and a unique blend grown off the dry rocky coast: their Super Tuscan paired with Pecorino cheese. I selcted a bottle of the Asinone which affectionately means " big donkey" to take back home as it's one tasty ass to be certain! Next up, as we wound through the fertile green hues rolling hillsides of of Tuscany, was lunch in Montepulciano at the historical Gattavechi which featured a charming terrace with view. 5 courses later we were begging for a break from the gorgeous September sun and some space to digest, yet again. Feeling very much like baccus, we took shelter in the cave beneath the winery and enjoyed a history lesson on the Etruscan beginnings the destruction of WWII and the proud legacy of a grandson who is very connected with his birthright of winemaking.
We transferred to the lovely town of Pienza and some private time to enjoy some shopping, gelato, conversations with the locals and exploration down the winding streets of this tiny Renaissance gem with only 2000 inhabitants. I found a beautiful church and slipped inside to pray (mainly in thanks for the opportunity to be here in such pleasant company, but also; for protection on the bus ride .) I wonder if there will ever be a journey through the tiny winding roads that I am not naturally gritting my teeth? I think the outlook is bleak as this has become admittedly, an expected part of the adventure which is: driving in Italy. I thought that we were all pretty pooped, but Sara had a real treat in store for us. The organic farm of il Casale put every other panorama to shame. I took 20 pictures of just the view and refuse to post a single one as the beauty could simply not be captured. Sitting there with the owner, a Swiss immigrant and his family; we were inspired the the farmers connection with his land, the deep concern for his animals, and the hard sharing of what it means to be both the caretaker and the taker of life. A true respect for the sacrifice that ultimately fills ones plate had us all contemplative and grateful as we enjoyed our final wine pairing of the day with 10 different small selections of sheep, goat and mixed raw milk Pecorino cheese for which the region is known. What a long and wonderful day of enjoyment by way of gastronomy. Ciao from Italy, or rather; Salve.28 years ago I boarded a plane to Rome. I think about that day often...the way that it inspired me, stirring a part of me that would answer time and time again, changing the course of my life permanently. At 19 I didn't know what awaited me across the expanse of the continent and then the sea. The moment I awoke to a sunrise over the golden glittered lanscape I knew, my soul had agreed upon this appointment long before hand.
The day that I arrived, I began a love affair with Italy that has only grown deeper and more complex with time. Like a fine wine my passion for this country grows sweeter (and more rewarding) with each exposure. Year after year I returned. I explored new areas with different travel companions. Then came the day that I brought my own family along. First my Mother, then my sister, then my father and other siblings, my cousin, and finally all of the extended aunties, uncles, cousins and grandparents, along with my precious husband and baby boys. My Magnum Opus, I thought, was a 3 week 4 generational journey spent together Under the Tuscan Sun. BUT...as the guide lead us about the countryside, it seemed my life was again set to music and this time I wanted more. Perhaps it was the cypress lined winding roads cradled by vineyards ripe with heavy vines, or the salons with white linen tables that bekoned me while courses of delicious fresh ingredients dazzled the palette. As if the setting and the food weren't enough, the way the language seemed to fall like a lullaby and the wine rich and provacotive thrilled the senses. Sun drenched beaches and cobblestone streets, mideaval hilltop fortresses and ancient ruins, a young couples embrace and hundreds of years of creative genius stood unapologetic in its raw and illustrious nature. My time spent at University in Classics and European Humanities errupted into a symphony of of retelling. The history of the places around me came to life and I knew that once and for all, this country (and its past) was my future. The word Salve was introduced to me that day, the day that I knew once and for all that I would no longer visit this place as an outsider; I must become part of it, for it had already claimed so many parts of me. Salve is a greeting. More formal than Ciao, but also still appropriate for a casual meeting. Salve is Hello. Salve is my entrance into every conversation and always well received. Both polite snd friendly, Salve is universally accepted. Today I began my journey through Italy again, not as a tourist, but as a guide. My partner, Sara, a native Tuscan from Arezzo, has taught me that the true nature of a local is in the language of the heart. So to all of those who I have had the pleasure of meeting today, Salve. Welcome to Italy! |